Satisfied Senses
Our senses were engaged. The brightness of the sun woke us. Banging pans roused us. Aromas from the kitchen called to us. Downstairs a homemade breakfast satisfied our taste buds. As we left our minshuku (Japanese-style bed and breakfasts) our hostess’s gentle goodbye touch warmed us. Our basic needs fulfilled.
From our hostel it was a short uphill walk back to Temple 88. The stroll was effortless compared to yesterdays climb. This morning, before the monks could open the facilities, we peacefully walked the grounds. The temple was the same as in 2009. Save for the hundreds of Kobo Daishi (founder of 88 Temples pilgrimage) figurines. They were gone. Seven year ago we had taken video of the exhibit, capturing something that no longer existed.
The alternate pilgrim route that would lead us back to temple #1 had also vanished. Lush with greenery, the path was wildly overgrown and difficult to make out. Our sense of touch would be aroused repeatedly as we trudged through countless cobwebs lacing the grass stalks.
The exit from the forest trail led us into a different sort of web. Bright orange construction zone cones were scattered everywhere. Flagman were busy directing traffic as we approached their barricade. When our turn came to cross, the first guard greeted us with a curious “koniciwa” (hello). Once across the second flagman, well into his 70’s, bowed as we left the area. Moments later, the elderly man raced past us, his frayed New Balance trainers barley attached to his feet. I hoped the shoes would stop him on the steep downhill road. When we caught up with him, he was standing waiting for us at his car, two osettai coffees in his hand. With a smile he turned, red flag tucked into his back pocket, and began the uphill sprint back to his station.
There are a few ways to return to temple #1, but the construction area had thrown us off track. An approaching small white car driven by an even smaller woman dressed in white stopped and helped us get back on course.
Today’s path, uncharacteristically, had no convenience stores on it. The onsen (Japanese bath) we came upon mid-morning would be our only opportunity for lunch. With an hour to wait until the restaurant opened we had some time to explore the facilities, especially the healthy supply of coin-operated massage equipment. The 600 yen we spent was an investment in painful relief. It made me long for my volunteer foot masseur even more.
After leaving the onsen the sound of brakes from behind made us jump. A man in his 60’s pulled over and presented us with new osettai, two melon cream sodas and an energy drink.
I wondered if this was the same car that earlier in the day had taken a corner pretty close to me? Perhaps he had seen my scared grimace in his rear-view mirror and came back with treats to ensure his good karma.
Further down Route 377 we came upon an abandoned office building. Broken windows with lace curtains, chalk boards full of information, dusty furniture, and a wall calendar that read 2013 were inside. All of it was abandoned and untouched. It was as if the office staff just walked away from it all one day. They never looked back and never returned. We wondered why these buildings don’t get salvaged? It is respect, superstition, or something else?
If it’s superstitions then perhaps the woman across the street thought she’d seen ghosts. She did the best double take when she saw us, dressed in our white vests, leaving the forgotten building. Regaining her composure, she crossed the street to meet us. It was not white that frightened her but the color of my tan arms. Since Japanese woman typically shy away from the sun, she offered to give me something to cover them.
We were in no hurry to rush through our twenty-two kilometers today. A stop at coffee shop was an easy decision. The white cafe on the corner lot was empty when we walked in. A single woman played with her young daughter. We ordered coffee and dessert. It was only when we were leaving did we notice a second child, levitating across two stools, completely asleep. Her position an experiment in gravity and physics.
Our minshuku for tonight had a note taped to the front door. “Come on in. Your room is on the first floor in the back”. On our room door another note “Malicia This is your room. Have a nice stay”. We decided “Malicia” heretofore would stand as “Matt and Alicia.”
The same sun that woke us was now setting on the river next to us. The evening birds were singing. The smell of dusk was in the air. With dinner, our taste buds were once again sated. Later, as I turned on the water to take a shower, there was no gentle touch, but a refreshing yet icy downpour.
Four of five happy senses to end the day.
May 23, 2016 - Temple 88-1
