Daydream Believers
An early morning train returned us to Sanuki City. Here we would start our walk to the final two temples. Our dream was about to become reality.
As the sun rays reflected on the tracks, our enthusiastic young conductor performed his duties with pure delight. His face imprinted with a permanent smile. At the third stop his white gloved hand opened the tiny window in his cramped compartment. He stuck his face out, closed his eyes, and breathed in deeply. Opening his eyes he gazed with amazement at the mountains of Takematsu City. A scene familiar to him, but still he soaked it in as if it were his first time. How inspiring to see that kind of contentment.
At the other end of the car, a middle-aged salaryman was spread out on his green velvety train bench. Hair and suite slightly disheveled. Perhaps he too was satisfied. He had a place to rest his head after a night drinking in Izakayas (Japanese bars).
Stepping onto the platform in Sanuki City we headed to 7-11. We ate our breakfast outside while Daydream Believer played for us on a continuous loop.
The Monkees number one hit stayed with us throughout the morning as we got lost in thoughts about our pilgrimage coming to its end.
Walking the 88 temples of Japan for the second time has taught me many things. One of those is that no experience can be recreated. Circumstances, weather, the people you meet, all guarantee the journeys to be different.
Arriving at Temple 87 (Nagao-ji) the difference was clear immediately. Seven years ago it was peaceful and quiet. On this sunny Sunday morning, the temple was a buzz. Cars parked inside the temples grounds came and went with frequency. Locals walked their dogs and pilgrim groups dodged each other as the went from hall to hall.
Joining the masses at the main hondo (hall) we heard an uncustomary high pitched noise similar to that of an excited child. To our left, a woman chanted sutras with her own unique and boisterous style. Other pilgrims tried not to look at her. Instead they increased their own voices. The sound coming from the hall could blow out speakers, but she continued her chanting with confidence and enthusiasm.
This scene reminded me of one of my pre-school ESL (English as a Second Language) students. For months a little girl watched me wide-eyed as I taught the class English songs like “Cookies, Cookies, 1,2 3” and “Head, Shoulders, Knees and Toes”.
She never said a single word.
Then, one day, it all came together for her. At the top of her voice she confidently sang ever word to every song we every learned. The entire class looked at her in stunned disbelief.
The lady next to us now reminded me of that student. When you are ready to do something, you do it with all your heart. And volume.
The quiet path to Temple 88 (Ōkubo-ji) took us by the Pilgrims Community Center. This museum has exhibits to help visitors fully understand the culture of the pilgrimage. Pilgrims come here to relax before their arduous climb to Temple 88. Volunteers give pilgrims information, refreshments and certificates of completion. Personally I was hoping one particular volunteer from 2009 would be here again today. This volunteer was a professional masseur and spent two days a week providing foot massages for all walking pilgrims. It didn’t matter to him if feet were tired, sore or even smelly. He dug into those muscles with unabashed devotion. His massage was painful, and my fingers were crossed for a repeat performance.
If you’d like to replay your entire pilgrimage, the museum has a large scale replica of the island of Shikoku. It displays the location of every temple. By pressing corresponding buttons, small red lights turn on each temple. It’s humbling to see your entire journey lite up in seconds.
We received our certificate of completion and became official 88 Temple Pilgrim Ambassadors, again. Leaving the center my feet hurt. Unfortunately a massage was one of those experiences that would be unrepeatable.
Our museum volunteer had described the route to Temple 88 as having “lots of ups and downs”. Carrying full backpacks added to the intensity of the ups. This is the only place on the pilgrimage where a chain rope is mandatory for going up sections of rock. At the top of one of those sections a hand made sign taped to a marker distracted us and we made a wrong turn.
Wrong turns on flat surfaces are a lot different from wrong turns on mountain trails that have “lots of ups and downs”. Backtracking we eventually found our red arrow friend that pointed us to the correct path.
With five o’clock approaching it was time to pick up the speed. The stamp office would close soon. My legs and knees cooperated and they carried me down the steep, stairway, decent. However, when we reached the temple grounds my legs wouldn’t stop trembling.
It took us forty-four days to walk 1200 kilometers through four prefectures, but Temple 88 is not our kechigan (end of one’s pilgrimage). Another forty-four kilometers remain to close the circle at Temple One. A visit to Mt. Koya in Osaka will make the journey, and belief in our dream complete.
May 22, 2016 - Temple 87 & 88
