Well Worth the Weight
Grey clouds overtook the morning sky, but the forecast gave us until 2:00 pm to complete our days tasks.
That meant seven hours to visit three temples and one YouMeTown. Plenty of time to reach our goals.
One ambition was to lighten our packs. With not many camping opportunities ahead we would ship our camping gear to Osaka. That decision became our driving force for the day.
With temples 68 (Jinnein), 69 (Kannon-ji), and 70 (Motoyama-ji) completed, we focused on our errand. Luckily we would pass through Mitoyo City which had a YouMe Town (large shopping mall). We felt confident that we would not only find a Yamato Transport Office but also have time to pick up new shoes for Matt. When neither of those things happened our packs suddenly felt heavier and Matt’s feet sorer.
At noon it started to rain. Two hours ahead of schedule.
My beloved plastic poncho smelled awful when pulled out of its tightly rolled formation deep in my backpack. Since last worn a week ago, it hadn’t completely dried and the stench was… noticeable. After an hour walking in the heavy rain we stopped at a henro hut (pilgrims resting areas) where I did a pretty good impersonation of Matt whining “I’m not staying here long!”.
We didn’t stay long. Needing a dry, warm spot, we altered our course and headed to a restaurant. That’s when it caught me eye. A yellow and black logo with two cats! Yamato Transport Office!
We staggered into the store, drenched with rain and dirt from busy Route 11. A clerk looked us over and smiled politely.
With hope I pointed to the Transport Company’s logo “Sore” (that).
Followed by a quick point to my backpack “Kono” (this).
Before should could answer “Daijōbudesuka?” (Is it ok?)
Then a final point to no place in particular “Osaka?” (to Osaka).
With a motherly, understanding smile and an “OK”, a group of women took off in search of the perfect box size. Three attempts later our tent and its accessories were successfully sealed into a cardboard box. With a shipping form filled out our extra weight was ready for export.
Never underestimate what a group of Japanese woman will do to help.
At Lawsons (convenience store), a young salaryman offered us osettai (gift). Four years ago he walked the 88 temples himself. His approach and manner were genuine. He had experienced the same things as us and could relate. He spoke at length and it seemed to me that his continued conversation was his way to revisit a time he very much enjoyed, even longed to do again. When he drove away, he felt like a friend.
Leaving the cover of Lawsons, we continued on. A young women driving by stopped next to Matt and gave him her umbrella. Ninety minutes later the umbrella fell apart. It was no match for the fierce rain and wind. We ducked into a car port and waited out the worst of the storm.
The gracious check-in clerk at our onsen (Japanese bath) spoke my name the minute we walked through the front door. We must have been the only foreigners on his check-in roster this evening. Grabbing Matt’s heavy wet backpack, he walked us to our tatami room (Japanese style room). His grip on the heavy sack slipping with each flight of stairs.
The onsen facilities were vast. A restaurant, play area, shopping, outdoor and indoor spaces all made up the compound. In the bath, black shampoo and conditioner were provided. That fact that it was black didn’t stop me from lathering up. Hiding my small tattoo I slipped into the hottest water they had.
I have a confession.
For decades I’ve been visiting onsens with friends, but it is on this pilgrimage that I now 100% get the Japanese love for their baths. It’s healthy, social and relaxing.
Soaking away the cold of the day I enjoyed watching two senior ladies whispering to each other, smiles on their faces and little white towels resting on their heads. They sneaked a peak at me once or twice. Probably chit chatting about my terrible pilgrim tan lines.
The camping equipment we’ve been hauling around for the last five weeks has been, at times, my biggest complaint. Yet this burden has provided me with seaside lodging, beautiful scenery, sunrises, and lightning bugs.
The weight was worth it.
May 16, 2016 - Temple 68, 69 & 70
