Dark Things
Bright sunshine had dried everything, except my hiking boots. The pair lived in a damp shoe locker overnight without breathing.
Slipping clean, relaxed feet into dark wet shoes first thing in the morning stinks, literally.
At the onsen restaurant our breakfast table was set and waiting for us. Written on a small dry erase board was アリシア, my name in hiragana. Now that’s pretty cool.
Not as refreshing was the humidity as we walked across the street to start the climb to Temple 71 (Iyadani-ji). This expansive temples layout was confusing. We mistakingly visited the Daishido (small hall) first. Atypical, the main hondo (hall) at his temple was inside. Taking off my stinky shoes and placing them far away from other peoples, we entered the ornate room. A group of pilgrim women were rhythmically chanting the heart sutra. The dozen bodies made the small space claustrophobic and difficult to maneuver. The scenario made me realize how special it is to pray outside with clouds, trees, water and yes, even rain.
A god blowing in the trees is just as beautiful as one surrounded by stained glass.
On the mountainous decent we came across a pilgrim tightly grasping his electronic device. He was lost. “Which way to the next temple?” he asked concerned. We confirmed with our guide book that it was the path directly ahead. He signed a heavy relief, glad the road was paved.
The twenty-something pilgrim introduced himself as Shu from Hong King, and followed it with a quick friendly “OK lets go to the next temple”.
Our duo had become a trio.
Shu told us that today was his final day on the pilgrimage. He had spent the last two weeks walking the “easy temples”. With only a handful of vacation days, he chose a route away from the snakes and insects found on mountain and forest paths.
Shu was very easy going and seemed game for anything. When we ran into another Potato Boy (yes there is another!) he enthusiastically participated in our excitement.
With the exception of a protective awning, this Potato Boys facade was similar to the last, however the gifts it offered were different. The squid chips that came from within were simply oishii (delicious).
We parted ways with Shu in Zentsuji City. He would go onto Temple 75 while we settled into our hotel. A few minutes after saying good-bye, Shu came running up behind us, waving his hands in the air. The crocs on his feet barely hanging on as he yelled “Sumimasen, Sumimasen, Photo.” Could we take a photo together? His toothy smile was warm and genuine, just like him.
Temple 75 (Mandara-ji) is popular and busy. It is the birthplace of Kōbō Daishi, the founder of the 88 temple pilgrimage. By the time we walked through the main gates in the late afternoon, the grounds were quiet.
Under the main hall, is a 100 meter long, pitch black tunnel called Kaidan Meguri. If you go, you must walk the tunnel without a light. In the center is a small square, said to mark the exact spot of Kōbō Daishi's birth.
Evil people are supposed to get stuck in the tunnel.
Matt entered first. A few moments into the tunnel I thought he stopped, waited and was walking next to me. Although I couldn’t see him I felt a presence. It’s only when his outline appeared further ahead did my blood stop. He could not have been beside me AND in front of me.
Proving our goodness, we exited the tunnel into the remaining afternoon light.
For the second time today we had confused buildings. We had not yet visited the smaller hall. A part of me wanted to just go. We had already chanted the Heart Sutra twice. Then thoughts of my parents, intention, discipline and of effort reminded me of why.
Why do something if you don’t give it your all? Making commitments and not following through is like walking trough darkness.
Seems like we exited, not one, but two tunnels today.
May 17, 2016 - Temple 71-75
