Five, Two and One
Five temples, two friends and one pesky mosquito were on today’s agenda.
Even though rain was coming down hard this morning we were able to walk through the city completely dry. One promenade after another connected the streets for blocks and provided cover as we walked to the train station.
The early hour had only a handful of people out and walking the same route as us. You wouldn’t think that we would know any of them, but four days ago outside Ozu City we met a local country girl at the Circle K. Her curiosity and enthusiasm for us was genuine and overwhelming. This morning, 50 kilometers away, we saw saw her again. When she noticed us she began waving her hands in the air and ran to join us. Seconds later a friend appeared at her side. When he saw us he proclaimed “California”. As we all spoke, their excitement and volume turned heads. Their honest enthusiasm was impressive.
From loud voices to squeaky rails, we rode a train for six stops to the next temple. Not a human sound was made the entire journey. Only the high-pitched, rhythmic screeching of wet rails filled the car.
At Temple 50 (Hanta-ji), my friend Noriko met us for a second visit to the island. She and her friend Bridgette drove from Hiroshima to spend the day with us. Noriko supports everything I do and she enjoys the pilgrimage very much. However she is very happy to be a kuruma henro (car pilgrim). As such Matt and I gifted her with a very appropriate car magnet.
The four of us went through the temple procedures together, visiting the Main and Daichi Halls, lighting candles and incense and reciting the Heart Sutra. Our tempo was a little off when we started the chant, but as we continued we found our cadence.
After lunch Noriko helped to book our accommodation for the night. The only minshuku (family-operated, Japanese-style bed and breakfasts) on the path was not answering their phone. This made Noriko determined to get through. Her dedication payed off with an eventual mooshi mooshi (hello by telephone). Several minutes of Japanese conversation took place before the phone was hung up. It took some convincing to get us a reservation. The older owner was hesitant to host foreign pilgrims. Noriko must have charmed him, as usually. He even offered to even pick us up at the end of the day if need be.
Temple 51 (Ishite-ji) is Matsuyama’s most famous temple. It’s name literally means “rock hand temple”. It comes from the legend of an aristocrat who was born here with a rock in his hand.
The temple is grand and popular. Several ancient wooden buildings, a three story pagoda, as well as food and souvenir vendors make up the sprawling grounds. We sampled the temples famous grilled mochi (rice cake) which in olden times used to be given to pilgrims for free.
When we arrived at Temple 52 (Taisan-ji) our host for the evening was waiting there for us. He had misunderstood our plans. We told him we would like to walk to Temple 53 and then to his home. He nodded and told us he would pick us up later at the convenience store, Family Mart instead. His location, he explains, is difficult to find.
A handful of hours later we arrive at Family Mart, wet from the afternoon downpour. Our host is waiting for us again. We jump into his car and drive the 5 minutes to his house. He’s nervous but relaxes as we converse in small words and gestures.
The home and our quarters are the typical collections of offbeat fun decor. Anxious to show us our space, he patiently waits as we take off our shoes and rain gear. He tells us we are his only guests for the evening. We can choose from one of three rooms. He shows us where we can hang out, eat and wait for our ofuro (bath) that will be ready in 50 minutes.
When we entered the bath area an enormous tub is filled to the top. It could have easily fit 20 people. Our host seems relieved when we tell him we are married and will share the bath.
One final check from the owner before bed as he makes sure we have everything we need. Tired but overly caffeinated, we crawl into bed. One small mosquito stays silent until the lights are off and we are almost asleep.
That’s when he starts his buzzing that would last until morning.
May 9, 2016 - Temple 49 - 53
