The Good Book
Today we enter the Dōjō of Enlightenment, or the third prefecture of Shikoku, Ehime. We are on the southwest coast of the island heading northward. Our Temple this morning is the furthest point from where we began our journey almost a month ago. Luckily for us Temple 40 (Kanjizai-ji) is right down the street.
This morning dark, fast moving clouds told us rain was imminent. After visiting the temple we took a bus for about thirteen kilometers. Our stop in Ainan Town was a short distance away from the pilgrim trail. The forested route wasted no time getting the heart pumping. As we climbed higher, the wind got crazy strong. It came at us from all directions. The majestic trees bent in its power. Dragon Tatus (dad) was with us and really enjoying himself. As we neared the top, a low hum grew in intensity. Was it thunder or something else? It was something else. Massive wind turbines towered over us, their blades too close for comfort. We pulled out our trusted guide book to check our location. It was not the first time we consulted it.
The pilgrims guide book is referenced many times throughout the pilgrimage. Before we hit the path each day three things in particular get extra attention. The first, will there be any Henro (pilgrim) Huts to rest at? Second, how many convenience or grocery stores will be on our route? Many times number two can also take care of the third, bathroom locations. On nature trails like today, toilets are scarce. Surprisingly the good book indicated numerous restrooms for this remote and mountainous trail. Those toilets however turned out to be wooden, dilapidated outhouses. With the wind, it would be a daring feat to even enter one.
But when you gotta go, you gotta go!
Bravely opening to door to one, the sight of a white substance took me by surprise. The entire surface was covered in lyme. Housekeeping doesn't do 400 meters.
Dodging turbines and outhouses we began our long decent down. The wind on the other side of the mountain was even more fierce, practically knocking us over. Other times it left us alone but upset everything around us.
Grey clouds continued to turned darker but the rain held off for the10 kilometers downhill. In the distance we could see another pilgrim gearing up for rain. When we were within ear shot he quickly began speaking to us in Japanese. Looking concerned, he pointed in the direction of the black sky. More talking, then pointing, and again talking, never stopping his process of getting dressed. We didn’t understand his words but his actions portrayed a very clear meaning. Before we had the chance to ask questions, he had gathered his plastic, water resistance self, and was gone.
Then the drops.
A few in the beginning and then more. We began to arm ourselves in our own rain gear. Fifteen minutes later the downpour began. A wave of rain was visible from a distance. It settled right between two mountain ranges, exactly where the pilgrim path lay ahead of us.
We braved it for a short while, but the combination of heavy rain and wind made us surrender. Frantically looking for any type of shelter, we ducked under the awning of a large building. Thankfully it was community center and it was open. A dry bench, vending machine and cover was all we needed to wait out the storm and call it a day.
Another reference to the good book told us a bus stop to the nearest city, Uwajimi was nearby. By the time the schedule could be deciphered, we (of course) missed the bus. We’d wait for another hour.
Outside our hotel window that evening the rain and wind continued to howl for hours. On the other side of the glass it was a dry and warm room. A recommendation from our guide book.
May 3, 2016 - Temple 40
