Pilgrims Will Cry
It is said that pilgrims will cry on day three. That is because temples 11 (Fujii-dera) & 12 (Shōsan-ji) are known as nansho temples, or perilous temples. Nansho’s are characterized by their high altitudes, long and steep climbs. Three days into the route, most pilgrims are still getting accustomed to their backpacks, terrain, and walking 8-10 hours. At 2640 feet, temple 12 would surely bring tears to our eyes. So today and tomorrow we’re “taking it easy”.
After resting at a henro hut for close to an hour, we stopped at a local sweets shop. With our cookies and mochi in hand we set off for Temple 6 (Anraku-ji) where we ate our morning desserts under a shady tree. Before leaving the temple, we enjoyed ice cream and coffee at a small table overlooking mountains and rice fields.
En route to Temple 7 (Jūraku-ji) a beautiful scene stopped us in our tracks. Rows of cherry blossoms framed Kumano-ji, an abandoned looking temple. The grounds were not kept up, but also not neglected. The main hall itself was empty. No candles, incense or people. It’s as if the locals in this area keep the grounds all to themselves only to enjoy the cherry blossoms for a magical 2-3 weeks out of the year. Leaving the temple we encountered a cheerful henro walking his pilgrimage gyaku-uchi, or in reverse. He told us that today he would finish all 88. Congratulations and gambatte we wished him. A few seconds after we parted I turned around and saw him standing at the entrance of the temple, arms outstretched as if he had no words for the beauty of the cherry blossom scene in front of him.
The spring flowers on the route stop us in our tracks. Bright colors against vibrant backdrops seem to be at every turn. Could this springtime pilgrimage rival my beloved autumn?
April 9, 2016 - Temples 6, 7, 8
