Morning vs. Afternoon Pilgrim
Depending on the hour, there is a distinct difference in the type of pilgrim locals will encounter when they meet us. For me, they will be greeted by a rather cheerful pilgrim in the morning. One who makes eye contact and sings “Konichiwa” (Hello) or “Ohayo Gozaimasu” (Good Morning). This pilgrim typically lives until about 2 or 3pm. Unfortunately, afternoon Alicia pilgrim does not provide the same jovial exchange. At that point in the day numerous kilometers and hours have been put into the path. The backpack begins to feel heavier, the sun hotter and the rain wetter. The “Konichiwa” delivery has less enthusiasm. Afternoon pilgrim needs to make some adjustments.
Those adjustments will need to start tomorrow as today was a 30km grind. Both morning and afternoon pilgrim were off their game. We had a good plan to start, leave our backpacks in a train station locker then circle back in the evening to pick them up. The weightlessness made it seem like we were flying at first, but eventually we landed and the remainder of the day was hard walking. The early stretch was along busy Route 55. Dodging bicycling kids on their way to school, morning traffic noise, smelly trucks as well as the mugginess from yesterdays rains accompanied us until afternoon. In all honestly, twice now the thought has run through my mind of “why am I doing this? Why put myself through all this discomfort?”. Then the turnoff for the green path, or nature trail. Instant relief and answers to the Why’s. A bamboo forest bathed in sunshine and shadows guided us to Temple 19. A cute farmer lady with a cheerful round face stopped to talk to us. A few meters later an older man with thick, rosary like beads around his neck also paused to chat. People seem interested as to what type of couple we are. Married or dating? Wonder why?
At temple 19 an earnest and proud woman ran eagerly to us wanting to explain the artwork in the temple’s main hondo, or hall. It is unique to all the temples. Knowing that the tour could take some time I tried to dissuade her by letting her know our tight schedule. Immediately a feeling of shame washed over me. As a pilgrim and person it is my responsibility to set my own difficulties aside and allow any human to feel fulfilled. We did not take her tour. This afternoon pilgrim walked away ashamed.
We retrieved our bags from the train station and then back to the trail to find our first campsite. With full backpacks on and more kilometers remaining, our mantra ascetic training was back in play.
The campsite tuned out to be a henro hut. The structure looked similar to a construction site office. Inside was electricity, running water, tables and chairs, futons, and many artifacts left behind by other pilgrims; books, plates, pans. The toilet was in a small building a few meters away. The hut had the capacity to sleep anywhere from 4-6 people. So far around 6pm looks like it might only be us. Perhaps for the best. This pilgrim needs a good nights sleep to be a better pilgrim tomorrow.
April 14, 2016 - Temples 18 & 19
